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When I first heard about dermaplaning I was intrigued- and a little pessimistic. From AHA’s to laminated brows, there have been many beauty trends in 2020 so far - is this one of many that will be forgotten about? For those who are curious about dermaplaning, don’t worry- I’ve looked into everything you need to know about dermaplaning.
What is Dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is more than just a trend or fad- it actually works. It’s backed by many dermatologists as a way to deal with pesky skin issues including dull skin, breakouts and wrinkles. This is because it removes layers of dead skin cells that our everyday cleaners and toners cannot reach. Dermaplaning is basically an exfoliating treatment where a dermatologist gently scrapes the skin with a surgical scalpel- Yes this sounds extreme (and painful, but we cover that later on) but it does a lot more than just remove peach fuzz (which by the way, it also removes). The end result is smooth skin and your foundation gliding onto your skin like butter all without the use of harsh chemicals and exfoliants.
However, with all skincare treatments there are both pros and cons and dermaplaning may not be for you. To help you out, I’ve gathered more information for you to make a safe and informed decision on the procedure.
What are the Benefits of Dermaplaning?
As well as removing peach fuzz from the face dermaplaning also has other amazing benefits. Firstly, did you know dermaplaning is actually a method of exfoliating the skin? This is because like an exfoliant, dermaplaning removes dead skin cells from the face leaving a clean, smooth canvas behind. However, unlike procedures like microdermabrasion dermaplaning doesn’t require the use of chemicals and is non-abrasive. This makes it a great alternative for people with sensitive skin- no more burning sensations and rashes on the quest for perfect skin! Also as I mentioned previously, it helps make up glide on effortlessly. So you can say goodbye to having to be a little more heavy handed with your beauty blender when applying your foundation.
Also, as any beauty savvy girl knows, any treatment with anti-aging properties does not reverse any signs already there as it does preventing further damage. So whilst this treatment won’t reverse the years, it will however reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, scars and fine lines- which of course doesn’t hurt!
What is the Procedure for Dermaplaning?
The procedure for dermaplaning is normally quick, non-evasive and requires no downtime. As a rule, your dermaplaning procedure may go as follows:
Step 1 Cleansing: Your aesthetic technician will ensure that all traces of make-up are removed, and massage a moisturising cleanser on the face to remove any surface dirt and oil.
Step 2 Dermaplane Procedure: Next, your aesthetic tech will then use a surgical blade at a 45 degree angle to remove dead skill cells and peach fuzz. During this stage, you will feel a light scraping. This step is pain free and many people have reported that the procedure is so relaxing, they find themselves taking a light nap during. The aesthetic tech will work on all areas on the face, one area at a time, covering the whole face down to the jawline- where the most peach fuzz is often found.
Every dermaplaning treatment is different and each procedure is tailored to an individual’s skin and face. So your aesthetic technician may start with one area and focus more on another, for example. Your tech will normally place the dead skin cells, peach fuzz and dirt onto a black napkin and show you the results- the results will probably come as a shock, but may also be oddly satisfying!
Step 3 Toning: Once your beauty tech is satisfied that everything has been removed, they will then apply a toner all around the face. This is done to remove any loose skin cells and hair left on the surface after the dermaplaning treatment.
Step 4 Moisturising: A rich moisturiser will be applied in circular motions to the face. This is most effective immediately after the procedure as the moisturiser will be penetrate the skin more as all the dead skin has been removed.
You then leave the salon radiant and glowing - all within 40-45 minutes!
Q&A for Dermaplaning
Are there any risks involved? Is it suitable for everybody?
As a rule, dermaplaning safe for all skin types when carried out by a professional. But of course it’s not for everybody - those with extremely sensitive skin (such as those with rosacea, active acne, Keratosis Pilaris, etc.) should avoid dermaplaning altogether. Also, it’s best to avoid the procedure if you have any active cold sores and/or infections on the face as it can spread bacteria leading to inflammation, scarring and pigmentation.
Does dermaplaning hurt?
When I first did my research on the procedure and saw the words ‘surgical scalpel’ and ‘face’ my inner self immediately thought ‘eek’. But fret not, it’s not painful at all. The best way to look at it is to compare it to regular shaving: you feel it, but if you’re doing it correctly, it doesn’t hurt.
Is there any downtime or aftercare?
The great news is there’s no downtime with this procedure - it’s not uncommon for people to get the 40 minute procedure done during lunch and return to work glowing, radiant and ready to tackle the rest of the working day. The most you can expect if you are a suitable candidate for dermaplaning is some slight redness. It is normally advised to allow the skin to breathe for 24 hours before applying anything to the face -including makeup.
What is the cost of dermaplaning?
Like all beauty procedures the cost depends on where you go and your area. For example, I live in Hertfordshire and the salon I visit for my other regular treatments charge £60 for the dermaplaning experience. However, if you visit a well-known, higher end establishment in London such Dr David Jack’s clinic, the treatment will set you back £150 a session. My advice for looking for a place? If your regular salon does it, and they’re a licenced beautician by all means go for it! Otherwise, ask for recommendations from them, friends who have had the procedure and if all else fails, consult your old friend Google to do your research.
Will dermaplaning make my hair grow back thicker?
Understandably, there is concern that hair growth will be affected after dermaplaning. However, this is a myth. According to Dr. David Jack, "There is no scientific basis for this. A surgical blade is used, which just shaves the ends from the fine vellus hairs. Nothing happens to the follicles themselves, so the growth of the hair isn't changed". So no ladies, you don’t have invest in a Gillette razor and shaving cream just yet.
I keep seeing dermaplaning home kits when researching. What about those? Are they recommended?
Although a lot of beauticians and professionals advise that the treatment should be done by a qualified professional rather than at home, a lot of my female friends-and girls everywhere have used the at home kits and devices. We live in a world where we’re doing it all- working around the clock, looking after families, ourselves and various other responsibilities. Or perhaps you may be saving for that dream home, holiday or pair of Maison Margiela Tabi boots so you want hold onto that extra cash. So the rising popularity of DIY dermaplaning is not at all a shocker.
Of course, the DIY kits won’t contain the surgical scalpel using in a beauty salon (and please note these can only be purchased by professionals with the correct credentials), but instead a tool that normally has a single blade. These single blades are small, gentle and less harsh on the skin- minimising the risk of nicking the skin. It is advised to thoroughly cleanse and tone the face prior to trying the DIY dermaplaning kits at home. And the same rules apply with in-office dermaplaning- don’t use them if you have broken and/or irritated skin, infections (such as cold sores) or active acne on the face. Whichever route you go for, is totally your choice - whatever you feel comfortable with. If you decide you want to try for yourself here’s a few recommendations from close friends and beauty reviews alike…
It is recommended that dermaplaning is done every 3-4 weeks for optimal results and to promote skin cell renewal. As long as your skin isn’t ultra-sensitive and you’re currently not experience any concerns or breakouts, dermaplaning is relatively low risk. However please note that if you’re simply looking to remove peach fuzz, the DIY kits or shaving may be a suitable choice for you. For deeper exfoliation and more hair removal I would strongly recommend visiting a qualified professional to carry out the in-house dermaplaning procedure.